Emma

MAYFAIR

Initially self-taught, Emma has complemented this with formal studies and practical experience gained within different types of businesses. Aside from her expertise with gemstones and her self-professed love of diamonds, she is acutely aware of the importance of design and style when it comes to selecting or creating a piece of jewellery.

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I first worked with jewellery when I was fifteen, predominantly with pre-owned and antique pieces. Being self-taught, I would learn about individual pieces as they arrived. I also took a silversmithing evening class and considered becoming a designer, but as I enjoy interacting with people, I chose to join a family jeweller. Since then I have had experience in both large and family run businesses.

Qualifications:

I continue to learn, of course, but have so far trained with the NAJ to attain my Professional Jewellers Diploma, or P.J.Dip, the Birmingham Assay Office, private jewellers, workshop tours, prestigious watch and jewellery brands, with the two most recent being the CPAA Pearl Specialist course and Gem-A Diamond Diploma. I have embarked upon my GIA Gemmologist course too.

Q & A

What is your earliest jewellery memory?
My mum’s jewellery box! She had a whole array of fun costume pieces and odd ear clips, which were great fun.

What is your favourite gemstone?
Diamonds, I never tire of them.

What advice would you give someone looking for a bespoke piece?
Find your vision; take inspiration from anything around you, then we can talk things over and really define your idea.

Describe your jewellery style in three words?
Discreet, functional, sentimental.

My favourite piece of jewellery

Choosing one, of course, is impossible! However, the Colombian Emerald and Diamond Drop Earrings immediately sprang to mind. Colombian emeralds have such an attractive vivid hue, renowned with gem enthusiasts the world over for being the most prestigious source, with the Muzo mine famously producing some of the most outstanding ones. Here, the smooth yellow gold rub over settings work so perfectly to accentuate the beautiful cuts of the stones, with pear shape and cushion shape emeralds, and a round brilliant cut diamond on each drop. The silhouette is beautifully balanced, with each section defined to flow together. The effect is utterly stunning: exceptionally rare gems as the focal point, yet also completely wearable and versatile. In fact, a client and I discussed these recently as a potential inspiration for another piece.

Bespoke Commission

Bespoke pieces can be anything from a solitaire to achieve exactly the perfect setting to the most elaborate suites using older stones from family jewellery, or sourced by our gemmologists, and anything in between. Sometimes the extravagant pieces look so incredible that more classic, simple pieces seem insignificant by comparison, but look again. The way these French cut diamonds are calibrated here to sit perfectly together as a set is remarkable. Stones are carefully chosen to match and then must be carefully aligned in terms of their cut to allow for a setting like this to work seamlessly. The gentle undulation of the graduation of the stones in this protective, encased channel setting is extremely sleek from a design perspective. A reimagined classic eternity ring, elegantly styled, that will still layer alongside other precious pieces.

My favourite jewellery period

Without a doubt, Art Deco, with its clean geometric shapes, contrasting diamond cuts and beautiful symmetry. Art Deco encompasses so many influences and styles. For example, the juxtaposing colours combined in Cartier’s Tutti Frutti collection, which were very much influenced by India and the exotic influences of Asian and Persian style. Emeralds, lapis lazuli, jade and rubies were also paired alongside manufactured stones and glass, which was a complete departure from previous eras. For me though, Art Deco conjures the image of the sharp, contrasting colours of black onyx and rock crystal, and the mixed cut diamond pieces so elegantly assembled in platinum; these looks to me are just incredibly classic. Van Cleef & Arpels, amongst others, created some breath-taking pieces, and also pioneered the mystery setting around this time.