What is a GMT Watch?

GMT watches are a fascinating blend of functionality and elegance, making them a preferred choice for travellers and watch enthusiasts alike. The hallmark of a GMT watch is its additional hand, which is synchronised with a 24-hour scale on the watch face. This guide explores the GMT's history, mechanics, benefits, and lasting appeal.

Screenshot 2025-09-02 140324.jpg

The GMT watch features a unique design that allows the wearer to simultaneously display time in two different time zones—typically their local time and a second time zone of their choice. This is achieved by using a rotating bezel or an additional dial. Initially designed for pilots and international travellers who needed to keep track of time across various geographical areas, the popularity of these watches has grown significantly over the years. Major luxury brands have also started incorporating advanced horological engineering into their designs, further enhancing their appeal.

The Origins of GMT Watches

In the mid-20th century, as transatlantic travel grew, the GMT complication - short for Greenwich Mean Time - emerged as a reliable solution for pilots and frequent travellers who needed to track multiple time zones. At the time, Greenwich Mean Time served as the universal reference for navigation and aviation.

Screenshot 2025-09-02 141425.jpg

Key Innovations in Early Development

The Glycine Airman, a pioneering watch that introduced a 24-hour dial and dual-time functionality for pilots, was released in 1953.

Just a year later, Rolex refined the concept with the launch of the GMT-Master in collaboration with Pan American Airways. It featured a distinctive 24-hour hand and a rotating bezel, allowing pilots to track both home and destination time.

While Glycine paved the way, Rolex's design set the benchmark for GMT watches, turning them from professional pilots' tools to luxury icons.

Screenshot 2025-09-02 140942.jpg

Milestones in GMT Watch Evolution

As international travel expanded, GMT mechanisms became increasingly sophisticated. Watchmakers refined movements for greater accuracy and convenience, introducing independent hour hands and more intuitive bezel designs.

Rolex advanced the complication further with the launch of the GMT-Master II in the 1980s, which allowed the local hour hand to be adjusted independently, a breakthrough that cemented its place as the benchmark for GMT watches.

How GMT Watches Work

The defining feature of a GMT watch is its additional hand, typically styled in a distinct manner, that circles the dial once every 24 hours. This hand points to a 24-hour scale, either on the bezel or the dial, enabling the wearer to track a second time zone.

m126710blnr-0003.jpg

The Functionality of the GMT Hand

Unlike the main hour hand, which completes a rotation every 12 hours, the GMT hand tracks a full day. When paired with a rotating bezel, it offers the flexibility to monitor a third time zone.

24d0b4ea-7b54-4075-a91c-05613a675ccc.jpg

Setting and Reading a GMT Watch

Set the local time using the main hour and minute hands.

Adjust the GMT hand to align with the home or reference time zone.

Use the 24-hour scale to differentiate between day and night hours in the second time zone.

Rotate the bezel if available to quickly adjust and track an additional time zone.

Benefits and Features of Luxury GMT Watches

Luxury GMT watches are prized for both their aesthetic appeal and functionality. Beyond practicality, they showcase refined craftsmanship and technical innovation.

Global convenience: Ideal for international travel, enabling wearers to stay connected across multiple time zones.

Craftsmanship: Incorporating intricate movements and fine detailing, they reflect the artistry of high horology.

Distinctive design: The GMT hand and 24-hour markers create a unique aesthetic instantly recognisable among luxury timepieces.

Enduring value: These watches often retain, and in some cases increase, their value over time.

Our Exclusive Collection of GMT Watches

We proudly offer the Rolex GMT-Master II, one of the most iconic GMT watches in the world. Originally created for professional pilots, it remains a benchmark in horology, combining precision, durability, and unmistakable style.

Alongside Rolex, we also present the Tudor Black Bay GMT. Known for its robust build and signature design, it combines the practicality of dual-time functionality with Tudor's heritage of fine Swiss watchmaking. Its 24-hour bezel and bold aesthetic make it a popular choice for collectors and world travellers alike.

Frequently Asked Questions

Below are the answers to our most commonly asked questions. Should you want to find out more please feel free to Contact Us and begin your Pragnell experience.

GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time. GMT watches were originally developed to help travellers and pilots track multiple time zones using a dedicated 24-hour hand.
GMT watches are valued because they let you track more than one time zone, making them practical for travellers and appealing to collectors.
Yes. With a rotating 24-hour bezel, some GMT watches can display a third time zone, making them highly practical for international travellers.
Both allow you to track two time zones, but they work slightly differently. A dual-time watch typically displays the second time zone on a separate sub dial, whereas a GMT watch utilises a 24-hour hand that points to a bezel or scale.
While the GMT function was created for practicality, it has been elevated by brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe, where precision engineering and refined design make these watches sought-after luxury pieces.
Contact us Contact Us