Antique Diamond Cuts
Antique diamond cuts are historic diamond shapes cut entirely by hand before modern precision technology existed. At Pragnell, we are one of the few British fine jewellers to work extensively with genuine antique-cut diamonds, carefully upcycled from once loved jewellery. With no new mining required, antique diamonds are among the most sustainable diamond choices available, combining beauty, rarity and responsibility.
Growing interest in vintage engagement rings and historic jewellery reflects a desire for individuality and authenticity. Each antique diamond bears the marks of its era—soft brilliance, warmth and unique proportions shaped by the skills and tools of the original cutter.
The History of Antique Diamond Cutting
Diamonds were originally admired in their natural crystal form. From the 14th century onwards, early diamantaires began shaping diamonds by hand, focusing on enhancing natural beauty rather than mathematical perfection. As tools evolved, diamond cuts gradually became more refined while retaining strong links to the artistic tastes of their time.
From the romantic Rose cuts of the 17th century to the bold geometry of Art Deco diamonds in the early 20th century, antique diamond cuts provide a visual history of craftsmanship, fashion and technological progress.
Types of Antique Diamond Cuts
Rose Cut Diamonds
Developed in India in the late 1500s, Rose cut diamonds feature a flat base with a domed crown of triangular facets, resembling a rosebud. Popular throughout Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries, they are admired for their soft, lustrous glow rather than sharp sparkle. At Pragnell, Rose cut diamonds are sourced exclusively from antique jewellery, preserving their romance and history.
Old Mine Cut Diamonds
Old Mine cut diamonds emerged during the 18th century and were shaped using hand powered cutting wheels. Characterised by a high crown, deep pavilion, small table and large visible culet, each Old Mine cut is subtly unique. Often seen as the predecessor of the modern round brilliant, these diamonds reflect the individuality of early craftsmanship.
Old European Cut Diamonds
By the late 19th century, advances in cutting techniques led to the Old European cut. Rounder and more symmetrical than the Old Mine cut, it features more facets and a small table. Old European diamonds are considered the direct ancestors of today’s Round Brilliant and are prized for their depth, balance and refined sparkle.
Antique Cushion Cut Diamonds
An evolution of the Old Mine cut, Antique Cushion cut diamonds have a square or rectangular outline with softly rounded corners. With a slightly larger table and shallower pavilion, they produce broad flashes of light and a warm, romantic glow, making them enduring favourites for antique engagement rings.
Asscher and Emerald Cut Diamonds
Stepped cuts became popular during the Art Deco era of the early 20th century. The Asscher cut, patented in 1902, is defined by a square shape, high crown, small table and striking symmetry, while rectangular versions became known as Emerald cuts. At Pragnell, we specialise in sourcing original Art Deco Asscher cut diamonds for authentic vintage designs.
French Cut Diamonds
French cut diamonds, also developed during the Art Deco period, are square with eight crown facets that create a distinctive star pattern. Derived from early Table cuts, they evolved to enhance light reflection and are valued for their clean lines and versatility when paired with other antique cuts.
Cut for Candlelight
Antique diamonds were designed for a time when jewellery was worn mainly in candlelight and low evening illumination. Their higher crowns and broader facets allow them to shimmer with a softer, romantic glow rather than the intense brilliance associated with modern cuts. This quality makes antique diamonds particularly captivating in vintage jewellery settings.
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Antique Diamonds and Sustainability
Because antique diamonds are reclaimed from historic jewellery, they require no new mining and carry minimal environmental impact. Each stone has its own story and provenance, offering an ethical and emotionally resonant choice for those seeking sustainable fine jewellery without compromise.
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